Harvest at Yering Station, Australia, 2008. Photo Credit
+Kevin Luther
French coming to Australia to learn winemaking?!?
“I came here to Australia, to
learn how to make wine like Coca-cola,” my French colleague explains. It is the
wine harvest season of 2008 in the Yarra Valley of Southern Australia and I am
sitting at the dinner table with my fellow cellar-hands, trying not to choke on
my wine in shock. We are from places as far and wide as Argentina, France, and the
United States. We are enjoying a rich, homemade French dinner, which oozes
sensual, buttery aromas that pair perfectly with the fruity yet peppery red wines
we’ve smuggled from the cellar. You’d think we are in heaven, but we are bone
tired and quickly learning that 16-hour long days do not breed the kind of
cultural sensitivity and curiosity that one need’s in such close living quarters.
The French man either fails to
notice our shock or fails to care, continuing his exhortation that in France
making wine is a true art that his family has passed on from generation to
generation. In this particular
day’s version of his rant, he does not delve into family politics or curse the
inheritance tax he will face some day. Today, he bemons the factory-line
efficiency of “New World” winemaking.
“Wine like Coca-Cola,” he
repeats. “They have nothing to teach me in how to make wine. My heritage taught
me to make wine. I come to Australia to learn how to manage a winery like an
assembly line at Coca-Cola.” His look of distaste fades a bit as he lifts his
forkful of rich French food to his mouth, savoring the flavors for a moment
then washing it down with the wine.
His distaste for the Australian
winemaking industry’s innovative factory-line mass-production approach to
winemaking and their ability to produce a consistent wine for a lower cost may
seem a bit betty. These days, many
traditional winemaking regions are a bit touchy- their heritage is threatened
if they cannot find a way to make an aging business model profitable. When the French
man inherits his family’s winery he will not only face a stiff inheritance tax,
but also tight regulations on his grape growing and winemaking practices. The
lack of flexibility in the French winemaking system, once a way to ensure only
the highest quality wines are produced, is now hindering the ability of
winemakers to adapt to the challenges of climate change. This has led to what
many agree is a decrease in French wine quality. Meanwhile, “New World” wines
from Australia, Chile, New Zealand, and the USA are seen as increasing in
quality as time progresses. In Australia, he argues, all that matters is
efficiency and the bottom-line; the art is lost.
Unpredictable climate demands quick adaptation from wine industry
Wild, unpredictable storms
coupled with surges in heat and prolonged droughts are beginning to take hold
as our world’s climate patterns change.
Wine grapes are a crop particularly susceptible to alterations in
weather patterns and many have dubbed wine grapes as the agricultural ‘canary
in a coal mine’. This vulnerability is in part due to wine grapes being a perennial
crop which requires large capital investment only to take years to yield
substantial and profitable fruit-usually about 7 years before a vineyard sells
their first bottle of wine. This 7-year product cycle means that the decision
on what grape to plant takes on an element of fortune-telling. The added
variable of climate change has only made this prediction more difficult.
To ensure profitability, care
must be taken to plant a wine varietal that will not fall out of fashion with
consumers yet is also suitable to a region’s expected climate in 7 years time-
and importantly, when the vineyard is reaching its performing prime in about 25
years. Wineries must consistently produce a superior product to stand a chance
at success in a market that is becoming increasingly competitive and overcrowded.
While upstart vineyards in the New World are able to adapt to environmental
changes by planting grape varietals suited to the new climate, the Old World is
locked into its tradition, barring innovation or adaptation.
The French man might do well to focus
his attention not on the New World’s production efficiency at Coca-Cola and
wineries, but rather on their adaptability. It is the latter which many New
World Winemakers cite as the source of their ability to adapt.
To further complicate the matter,
the planet’s changing climate has resulted in heat waves and droughts that not
only lead to smaller crop yields but also result in jammy, alcoholic wines that
are unappealing to some consumers.
“At the old, cooler temperatures
people were used to a grape ripening where the flavors and sugar develop
slowly. A lot of vineyards still have the same vines in the same spot, but now
it’s too hot. The heat makes the sugar spike ahead of the flavors, and you get
raisins before you get the flavors you need to make great wine,” says +Kevin Luther, associate winemaker and manage of Wise Villa Winery, in Northern
California.
How Australia might come out on top
Recent work published in the
scientific journal Agriculture,
Ecosystems and Environment demonstrates that regions like Australia, which
have flexible and liberal approaches to wine making and its regulation, are
already adapting much better to our world’s changing climate than regions like
France, which have rigid cultural and legal restrictions on wine making (Lereboullet, 2013). While Australia’s
wine makers may not be any younger than those in France, they benefit from a youthful,
New World approach to wine making.
Mount Mary Vineyard is the
perfect example of the forward thinking Australian winery. The variability that
climate change has brought to Mount Mary’s local weather patterns has become
undeniable and they are already considering and starting to implement climate
change adaptation plans. Mount Mary has already planted a new vineyard on a
Southern facing plot of land, hoping it will provide a cooler ‘microclimate.’
Currently, they are considering other means of climate change adaptation,
ranging from irrigation to planting new, more hearty varieties to completely
relocating altogether. Owner, Dr. David Middleton, is concerned that all of
these options may compromise the “reputation of consistency” that they have
worked so hard to build. The situation is dire and he expresses concern that,
“our varieties may no longer ripen in a way that suits our chosen product
style. This is critical to our reputation which has been built on consistency
over many years.” Exasperated, he proclaims, “costs are high, risks are high
but the alternate outcome of not delivering on 40 years of reputation is not
something we want to think about too much.”
French winemakers are in a
similar position to their Australian counterparts: climate change is affecting
their ability to produce consistent high quality wines. Winemakers in France,
however, face even greater hurdles when it comes to climate change adaptation. The
glory and reputation of French wines was built upon stringent and numerous
restrictions, and the majority of these laws remain today. Regionally restricting
the varieties that could be grown was a policy that ensured only grapes of the
highest quality, that were suited to a region’s particular climate, were grown.
This preventing sub-par ‘table wines’ from leaking out onto the market ruining
a region’s hard-earned reputation. Potential climate mitigation strategies like
irrigation, dealcholization, blending, planting alternate varietals, are either
restricted, illegal or seen as economically unfavorable. It appears that the
laws that once allowed France to become the world’s most prominent wine region
may lead to its demise, as climate change plays a growing role in the success
of individual wineries.
Only time will tell which wine
regions will suffer the most from climate change. Some will be able to adapt, but undoubtedly, some will not.
So make sure you savor your favorite wine for a moment longer today, as it too
may be eventually sacrificed upon the variability of climate change.
Sources